Okay... here we go... let’s smock!
This is part 2 of my pleating and smocking tutorial. Part 1, which explains how to hand-pleat fabric, can be found here.
Smocking is very simple once you get a few basic rules straight. In its simplest form smocking is nothing but basic back stitching. My plan is to show you the basics and a few simple stitches that are often used in smocking. Once you have the hang of it you’ll be able to find and use lots of other smocking stitches if you decide you want to.
I appreciate the fact that smocking is functional and that’s really the reason that smocking was developed in the first place but my fascination is in the fact that its beautiful and so versatile and easy!
First of all, use a good needle. I prefer milliners needles (far left) because they have a small eye that is not much wider than the shaft of the needle. This makes it a great needle for embroidery stitches. Milliners are also available in nice long lengths which makes than great for pleating and smocking.
Let’s look at a basic back stitch. Back stitching is often used as a basic hand sewing stitch for joining pieces of fabric. It is also used as an outline sort of embroidery stitch.
Back stitching is worked from right to left and is called back stitching because it is literally stitched by backing up a step and then moving forward again. To work back stitching: Insert the tip of the working needle into A...
and bring the needle tip back out to the front at B...
Pull the needle through until the thread sits neatly on the surface of the fabric. Repeat this step, always doing your best to keep the stitches a uniform size, for as long of a line as needed. That's back stitch. Simple.
The differences between this kind of flat back stitching and smocking are the direction of the work and the fact that smocking is 3 dimensional. Let's take a closer look at the way smocking back stitches are worked.
Again, we'll use a flat piece of fabric to demonstrate. Smocking back stitches often move up and down. This is what makes the pattern. Here is a basic back stitch worked downward...
Here, the back stitches are worked one at a time in a downward direction. Notice that the thread is kept above the needle as the needle leads the way down. Pull the needle through...
The needle leads the way down another step to make another stitch...
This is the exact same way a downward smocking stitch is worked, the only difference being that the smocking stitch would be worked into the top of a pleat.
Now let's move upward, again with the needle leading the way...
The needle leads and the thread is kept below because it is following. Back stitching is still exactly the same. The only thing that is changing is needle placement.
Here's 2 columns of back stitches formed in this manner...
And here are some back stitches worked just like a "wave" stitch for smocking.
2 steps down, a bottom stitch, 2 steps up, a top stitch, etc...
One important thing to remember is that the thread should always follow the needle. If you are working downward the thread should be above the needle. If you are working upward the thread should be below the needle.
Another very important rule is to always keep the needle parallel with the pleated threads. By doing this you will always have straight even rows of stitching. Smocking stitches form smocking patterns by working together and forming an overall pattern. If they aren't lined up and even they will look sloppy and broken.
Also remember that threads should set snugly against the surface of the fabric but not cinch a pleat. Too loose will get caught on things and won't keep the fabric stable. Too tight will look bad.
Some terminology:
A whole space is a space between 2 pleat threads. A half space is half that and a quarter space is a quarter of that space.
Okay... that wasn't helpful. Here...
That's better. That's important to know because smocking patterns (called smock plates) will specify how many spaces are worked total and how "tall" each part of the pattern is in whole, half, and quarter spaces.
As I just mentioned, if you ever go shopping for smocking designs the proper term is smock plate. I don't know why. I think its weird.
One more thing. Remember how we took "small bites" of fabric when we stitched the pleat threads? That was so they wouldn't get in the way of our smocking stitches. The pleat stitches are now on the back of the pleated fabric and the smocking stitches will be worked on the front. Taking the thickness of the pleated fabric into consideration the pleat stitches should sit rather shallow. The smocking stitches will be a bit deeper on the front side. Look at this "bird's eye view"...
Okay... let's have a look at some actual smocking... here's my piece of pleated fabric from Part 1 of this tutorial with a few smocking stitches on it...
Before you start stitching you'll need to thread a needle. Assuming you're using DMC floss or some other 6 strand embroidery floss you'll need to cut a piece about 18 inches long and separate some plies. 2 or 3 strands is usually good for smocking. I used 2 strands on my sample piece.
The top line of stitching on this piece is called cable stitching. It is often used as the top row of stitching because it is a tight, stable line of close stitches. Its especially important on bishop style dresses.
Okay... now all that blab from above is going to come together.
Pull 2 pleats apart just a little bit and you'll be able to see the pleat threads. Use your pleat threads as guides (think of them as lines on paper)...
Cable stitch is worked along a single pleater thread. Make a stitch as shown in the picture below. Stitch in each pleat only once. An up cable is worked with the thread below the needle. A down cable is worked with the thread above the needle. Other than that they are worked the exact same. Work across the first row 1 cable up, 1 cable down, 1 cable up, 1 cable down, repeat across. Be sure to keep the needle parallel to the pleater thread at all times.
Your first instinct will be to "line up" each stitch with the one before it but trust me.. just keep the needle parallel and try to take the same size "bite" out of each pleat and it will be perfect. Here's a slightly closer look....
a down cable stitch...
and an up cable stitch...
When you get to the end of the row take the needle through to the back and tie it off.
Normally, at the start of a smocking project, you'll need to count pleats to make sure you have the correct count for a repeating pattern across... just like a knitting pattern with a stitch multiple. Since we are only practicing don't worry about how many pleats you have or at what stitch your row ends.
Next is those diamond looking stitches. The entire "diamond" is worked over 2 whole spaces. It is made of half space wave stitches (also called Trellis stitch). Wave stitches are nothing more than those up and down traveling back stitches just like in the photo of the stitches on the flat fabric.
Bring the thread from the back to the front on a pleat thread line...
Needle leads the way down a half space and makes a stitch in the next pleat...
Needle leads down another half space and makes a stitch in next pleat...
You should now be on the next pleat thread. To make the bottom "cap" stitch place the thread and needle as if to work upward (thread below needle) and make a stitch in the next pleat but still on the pleat thread line...
Now work upward a half space, then upward another half space, arriving at the next pleat thread line. Work a top "cap" by keeping the thread above the needle as to work downward and make a stitch on the pleat line...
Repeat these maneuvers across the row to the end. Always stitch in each pleat only once.
This first trip across the pleats makes the top half of our diamond smocking design. Th bottom half is made the exact same way and you'll see the up and down movements coming together to form the diamonds. Work this second row across to match the first...
Here's a crappy sketch of what we just did...
So here's my finished piece...
Now, if we had been making the front of a dress or something like that there certainly would have been more to do. There would have been more smocking rows, possibly some armholes to cut out, and some construction sewing. Depending on the style of garment some of the pleater threads may be removed at this point, some are usually left in until the sewing is complete. This is one reason to leave un-pleated fabric to each side of the pleated section... seam allowances.
Since we are just practicing, let's remove our pleater threads now and have a look at the result.
Flip the piece over and have a look at the back.
On my piece the orange threads are my pleat threads and the green ones are the smock threads. The pleat threads are easy to remove. Just pull on a knot to pull it away from the fabric a little...
and snip the knot off. Repeat with the other thread pairs until they are all cut and then just pull them out by the knot on the other end...
Once all the pleater threads are out you'll see the smocking bloom out a bit. Now the smocking is the only thing holding the pleats. You do need to realize at this point that typically there would be a lot more stability to a smocked piece. The top especially would have some sort of finish whether it was a strip of bias for a neck binding or maybe even the whole piece would be stitched to a full yoke. The point is... this little piece is going to widen out much more than it should because there's nothing else to lend stability. Let's go ahead and press it anyway.
You can see here that the piece is blooming out on its own already... set free from the pleater threads...
It has lots of stretch, which is normal for a piece of un-seamed smocking...
The trick to pressing smocking is to not flatten the pleats. Just use the tip of your iron to press up into the smocking without running over the smocking stitches...
The smocking itself can be blocked by holding a steam iron right above the surface of the smocking without actually touching it (I don't normally do this).
There ya go...
Now, I know this got ridiculously long, as all my tutorials do. This happens because above all I really want to give you as much information as possible. I know I can't tell you everything there is to know about smocking or knitting or whatever all in one post but I do want you to take away at least a little bit so you can dig further if you'd like to.
There's still a million little things I could add or explain and really this would all be so much easier if you all just came over and sat at the table and I made coffee and we chatted and stitched together. Maybe I should make one of those little video tutorial things and post that.
Anyway... questions are welcome. I'll answer as much as I can as soon as I can. If there's another way I can help to clarify any of this do let me know. I'll always help as much as I can.
